The Only Normandy Travel Guide You Need: 2-4 Day Itinerary for D-Day Sites and more..
Hey guys, I’m Aniket here, Shivani’s husband. In April 2024, as a part of our Europe Trip, we spent a couple of days exploring Normandy - a place which finds a mention in every History buff’s bucket list. Driving around the picturesque countryside with rolling hills, beaches and lots and lots of cows almost makes you forget that this was the site for one of the most decisive operations during the Second World War. And the Island monastery of Mont St Michel makes you feel like you’re transported into another era.
The best place to stay at, while exploring Normandy is the town of Bayeux. Not only is it centrally located to best explore the area but also carries the additional historical distinction of being the first major town to be liberated by the Allies after the D Day landings. The town has a very nice, quaint feel and gives a very peaceful vibe.
There are a number of high speed trains from Paris to Bayeux, operated by SNCF, which depart from Paris Saint-Lazare station. This journey takes 2h 13m and costs $50 - $110. Alternatively, you can take a bus, which costs $25 - $45 and takes 3h 13m. Driving is always an option if you plan on renting the car for your stay in Normandy.
You can book your train tickets on Omio, SNCF or Trainline app and for bus you can book on Flixbus.
We stayed in Bayeux for 2 days in a centrally located private apartment that we found on Airbnb. We spent most of our time exploring the nearby countryside. On the first day, we drove down to Mont St Michel, a medieval era island commune that has served as a monastery, a military stronghold, a prison, a lookout post and a major tourist destination at various points since the 13th Century.
On the second day, we took a “Band of Brothers” tour, exploring various important sites of the D Day landings. I’m a huge fan of the HBO series “Band of Brothers”, and this tour also covered some of the most important sites shown on the show. However, at the end of the 2 days, I left with the feeling that I had barely scratched the surface.
I’d like to take you guys on a little adventure, telling you the best things to do on a 2-4 day trip in Normandy.
Day 1 - The D-Day Landings
The D Day landings are perhaps one of the most significant and romanticized events that have happened on either (and both) sides of the English Channel in this Century. More than 130,000 troops landed on the 5 beaches, accompanied by bombing raids, naval gunfire support and more than 24,000 airborne troops. The town of Bayeux is filled with references to the Landings, and the minute you get off the train, you are greeted by this map.
The best way to explore the Landings however, is to take a guided tour, and we booked a “Band of Brothers” tour with Overlord Tours. Overlord Tours is one of the oldest and most reputed tour providers in the field. I personally believe that the best way to relate to history is as a story (maybe that’s why they call it hi-story), so we sat down one week before the trip to (re)watch Band of Brothers for the umpteenth time.
(WARNING - The next few paragraphs may be a little too nerdy. Feel free to jump to Day 2 if you have had enough Band of Brothers fan-boying)
If you’ve made it here, let me guess, you are a bit of a history buff. Don’t worry, you’re in the right place.
The tour started at 0820 at Bayeux and we were greeted by Stephen, our tour guide. We were part of a small group of 7 people and we headed off in a minivan for our first destination - Omaha Beach. Stephen beautifully brought the sequence of events of that fateful day to life, and made us feel as if we were sitting in a time machine transported back to the 6th of June, 1944. He was assisted by a binder full of maps and photos and the confidence of someone who has read every single source on the topic. At Omaha, we also saw a number of German outposts with their weapons perfectly overlooking the beaches with intersecting fields of fire.
A very intense History lesson indeed
The next stop was the American Cemetery at Colleville-sur-Mer. The cemetery spans over 172.5 acres and contains the remains of 9387 service personnel who laid their lives in Normandy. Walking past the rows of tombstones was truly humbling. An interesting fact is that the site of the Cemetery has actually been given by the French to the Americans on a near permanent lease, so I can say that technically, we walked on American soil.
After the Cemetery, we went to Pointe-du-Hoc, a 100 foot cliff that overlooks Omaha Beach, and was a major stronghold in the Atlantic Wall. Pointe-du-Hoc contained a number of German bunkers and artillery guns at the time of the landings, and some of them are preserved even today. We were also able to enter some of the German bunkers and actually look through the observation points, at the area where Allied soldiers would have landed 80 years ago.
Peering out from a German Bunker
The first few hours of the tour had largely set up the background of the invasion, helping us understand its might and magnitude and by this time we were starting to get hungry. Lunch was at the town of Sainte-Mere-Eglise. I had a delicious “Norman Board” which was basically a charcuterie board consisting of meat, bread, cheese and lots of fruit while Shivani ordered some Fish and Chips. We also ordered some of the local Cider to complete the meal.
An interesting thing about Saint Mere Eglise is the dummy of a paratrooper hanging from the steeple of the church - an event made famous by the movie “The Longest Day”.
Well refreshed after our lunch, we entered what was in my opinion the highlight of the trip - the Airborne Museum. The Airborne Museum perfectly chronicles the role of the paratroopers in the landings with information presented in the form of movies, text, voice and props. The museum contains a lot of the actual weapons and equipment used by the 82nd and 101st airborne regiments during the jump. In fact, one even has the chance to wear a parachute and imagine himself ready to stand in the door and take the jump. The best part of the museum are the WACO and C47 buildings which contain actual aircraft which have been placed with their full loadout of sticks of 12 paratroopers. The attention to detail is incredible with even the ambient sound and lighting making you feel like you are flying over Normandy in the middle of enemy flak.
We drove from St Mere Eglise to Marmion’s Farm - one of the first airborne rallying points on the 6th of June. Stephen kept us regaled with interesting facts and stories of the trip throughout the drive. En route, we also stopped at the crash site of the C47 that was carrying Lt Meeham, the CO of Easy Company at the time of the jump.
Fun Fact: One of the first photos of the D Day Landings to reach the American public was taken at Marmiom’s Farm!
Our next stop was Brecourt Manor. Brecourt Manor was the location of an important German artillery battery during the Landings and was shelling the allied soldiers on the beaches. In one of the most iconic events depicted in the show, Lt Winters and Easy Company took down the guns allowing US soldiers to move inland from Utah Beach. Walking along the same path (till we were shooed away by the local cows), made me feel like I was a part of Easy Company!
After this, we went to Angoville-Au-Plain. Angoville Au Plain has a very fascinating story of 2 medics who set up an aid station in a 12/13th century Gothic era church. The 2 medics took care of around 80 American and German soldiers for more than 72 hours - displaying humanity in a time of brutality. Interestingly, they also treated a young boy who was injured during the battle and later went on to become the mayor of the town. The medics are honoured by a memorial and my favourite picture from this day - that of a stained glass painting of paratroopers in a church!
The last destination on the tour was Carentan - an important town which linked the roads leading out from Utah and Omaha beach. On the way, we had a short halt at a memorial to Major Dick Winters. We came back to Bayeux, after an interesting and emotional day with an absolutely new level of respect for the brave soldiers, airmen and civilians who gave their all to ensure the freedom of Europe on that fateful day.
During our conversations with Stephen, we had told him that we were Indian and as we were finishing with the tour, he took us to a memorial to the No. 132 (City of Bombay) Squadron of the Royal Air Force which had operated in the area at the time of the D Day landings.
In the evening, we had a quiet dinner at one of the many restaurants that line the main street of the town.
Escargot and Shrimps at La Gitane in Bayeux
Day 2 - Bayeux Tapestry, Cathedral, and an indulgence in local cuisine
From Day 2 onwards, I recommend renting a car. While none of the major car rental agencies like Sixt or EuropCar are located at Bayeux, we rented the car from a local agency called Bessin Location. We had reached out well in advance over email, and picked the car up as soon as the rental agency opened. Renting the car cost us around ₹8000 including fuel for one day.
For Indian travellers, France does not require an International Driving Permit. However, driving on the right side of the road can be a bit challenging. I did not find it very difficult so long as I was on the highway. However, I had to frequently fight the instinct to drive on the left, especially in the cities. Also, there are a bunch of different types of fuel which left me thoroughly confused. Fortunately, Alexandre, the owner of the car rental agency helped me out with refuelling the car.
If, like us, you have only 2 days, you can skip ahead to Day 3 of this itinerary.
So for Day 2, there are two options - Either you can continue with the Historical circuit where you visit the Bayeux Tapestry and go back to the Airborne Museum for some more. Or you can explore the culinary delights of Normandy - Calvados, Cider and Caramel!
Option 1 : Historical Circuit
I recommend you start your Day 2 with the Bayeux Tapestry Museum.
It is said there are 2 amphibious battles which have shaped the history of the Western World. One, of course, is the D Day landing and the other is the Battle of Hastings.
In 1066 AD, after the death of the King of England, William of Normandy laid claim on the Kingdom of England. William sailed from Normandy with a few thousand infantry, cavalry and archers to the shores of England. William of Normandy defeated the army of the Kingdom of England at Hastings and led to the establishment of Norman Rule in England.
The Bayeux Tapestry is an embroidered cloth, nearly 70 metres long, and 50 cm tall, which describes the events leading up to the Norman Conquest of England in 1066.
After this, I recommend going back to the Airborne Museum. If you are anything like me, the 1 hour stop at the museum yesterday would have only scratched the surface and revisiting the museum would allow you to appreciate the museum to the fullest.
There are some other historical places of interest nearby which should keep you busy for the rest of the day.
A beautiful 11th century Cathedral in the town of Bayeux
The D Day Museum at Arromanches, around 11Km away from Bayeux
The Baron Gerard Museum of Art and History
Option 2 : Culinary circuit
Normandy is a foodie’s paradise famous for its Camembert cheese, Calvados, Cider and Caramel (Yayy, so much alliteration!). And Bayeux is perfectly located for you to explore all of these to the fullest.
The dairy farms that abound the Normandy countryside are famous for their production of Camembert cheese which is a soft and creamy cheese made out of cow’s milk. The area is also famous for its Salted Caramel, made out of the salted butter from the area of Isigny.
Normandy is also a major producer of apples. The area is famous for its Apple Cider, made from fermentation of the sugars in the apple. Apple Cider has an alcohol percentage of 3-5% and goes down the throat like a smooth, apple flavoured beer. Definitely a must try.
The local distilleries are also famous for their production of Calvados - an apple brandy made from the distillation of fermented apple cider.
I recommend a guided food tour for the Culinary circuit which will take you to both the dairy farms and the distilleries for a comprehensive food tasting of everything Normandy has to offer. There are a number of full day food tours available on GetYourGuide, Viator and Trip Advisor.
Option 3 - Mix and Match
Option 3 offers a balance between the History circuit and the Culinary circuit.
There are a couple of options for shorter food/ wine tours that can be taken at Bayeux, which could be coupled with a visit to the Airborne Museum or the Bayeux Tapestry. Or if you have had too much of museums, just a comfortable stroll along the Aure river.
Day 3 - Mont St Michel
On Day 3 (or Day 2 if you are doing a 2 day trip), I recommend going to Mont St Michel.
Mont St Michel is located around 110 Km (1.5 hours) away from Bayeux and it has a fascinating history. According to legend, in the year 708, the archangel Michel appeared to the bishop of Avranches and instructed him to build a church on a rocky islet just off the coast. A Benedictine Monastery was set up here in 966 by the dukes of Normandy. Soon, the Abbey became a renowned centre of learning, attracting some of the greatest minds in Europe along with a vast number of pilgrims. The Abbey became a military stronghold during the Hundred Years War, withstanding many sieges by the British. After the French Revolution in the 19th century, the islet was converted into a prison for opponents of the republican regime. During the Second World War, German soldiers occupied the monastery, using its high towers as a lookout-post against the British. The monastery has subsequently been restored and finds a mention as a UNESCO heritage site.
The drive is absolutely breathtaking, with the beautiful countryside, lots of livestock and just so much greenery. The Monastery is located approximately one kilometre from the coast, and is connected with the mainland by a short causeway. There is a frequent and free shuttle service that operates between the parking area and the commune, however (weather and tides willing), you can also choose to walk the distance for some beautiful views!
The bay has some of the largest tidal ranges in Europe, and the area is surrounded by quicksand. GetYourGuide also offers some interesting quicksand exploring activities if that’s your thing.
Do note that there are a lot of steps at the islet, so be sure to wear good shoes. The monastery also tends to get quite damp and windy, so one additional layer isn’t a bad idea.
The monastery is located at the top of the hill, with a number of shops, restaurants and museums dotting either side of the walk. There are 4 museums on the island
Maritime Museum - The museum explains the maritime history of the Mount along with more than 250 models of ancient ships.
Archeoscope - The Archeoscope multimedia show retraces the long history of Mont Saint-Michel, in an exciting and immersive way.
Logis Tiphaine - The museum allows you to discover the living conditions of a Medieval knight through period furniture, tapestries, and the armour of the knight Bertrand du Guesclin, and the astrology study of his wife, Tiphaine de Raguenel.
Historical Museum - This museum retraces the 1,300 years of Mont Saint Michel’s history, through wax figures representing the monk-builders and the prisoners of the abbey.
Tickets for the museums can be purchased at the entrance to the museum itself. Combo tickets for more than one museum are also available.
The shops have some quaint souvenirs which beautifully combine the Religious, Maritime and Military of history of the Monastery. Mont St Michel is famous for its salt marsh lamb, which has a unique salty flavour. You can also eat some omelettes and crepes and I would definitely recommend eating a meal here with a beautiful view of the Bay.
The Monastery itself has an entry ticket (which we purchased beforehand on GetYourGuide) which includes a guided tour, so you should target reaching the monastery by 2 pm. The timings of the English tour are :
September 1 to April 30
Monday to Friday at 10:30 am, 2:30 pm, 4:00 pm
Saturday and Sunday at 10:30 am, 3:00 pm
May 2 to August 31
Monday to Friday at 10:15am, 3:15pm, 4:45pm
Saturday and Sunday at 10:15am, 5:30pm
The guided tour in itself, takes you all around the ramparts of the mount, giving a beautiful panoramic view of the entire bay. The tour also took us into the Abbey, the cloisters and monastic accommodation along with the parish church of St Peter. I highly recommend taking the tour so as to put all the beautiful sites in context with the scale of difficulty at which they were built on this island, far before the advent of modern technology.
We left Mont St Michel by around 4PM because of our travel restrictions ahead, however if you have the time, the sunset here would be a sight to behold! We reached Bayeux by the evening after a truly spectacular day.
Day 4 - Étretat
If you have 4 days available, spend Day 4 exploring the famous cliffs of Étretat. This charming coastal town is renowned for its stunning natural beauty, dramatic white cliffs, and breathtaking seascapes.
Start your day with a scenic drive to Étretat, located about 150 km (2 hours) from Bayeux. The journey will take you through picturesque Norman countryside and quaint villages.
Upon arriving in Étretat, head straight to the cliffs for a coastal walk. The cliffs of Étretat, including the iconic Arch (L'Aiguille) and the Needle (La Falaise d'Aval), are famous for their unique geological formations, shaped by millennia of erosion. Geology enthusiasts will appreciate the striking chalk formations and the way natural forces have sculpted the landscape over time.
Images by Freepik
For lunch, dine at one of the many seafront restaurants. Enjoy fresh seafood, a local specialty, while taking in the stunning views of the cliffs and the English Channel.
After lunch, visit the Étretat Gardens (Les Jardins d'Étretat), a beautiful blend of art and nature. The gardens offer a unique perspective of the cliffs and sea, with contemporary sculptures adding an artistic touch to the landscape.
Next, take some time to explore the charming village of Étretat. Stroll through the narrow streets, visit local shops, and perhaps pick up some souvenirs.
Head up to the Chapel of Notre-Dame de la Garde, perched high on the cliffs, for a panoramic view of the coastline. This spot is perfect for taking photos and appreciating the natural beauty of Étretat.
If time allows, stay for the sunset. The view of the sun setting over the cliffs and the sea is truly mesmerising and a perfect way to end your day in Étretat.
After a day of exploration and natural beauty, drive back to Bayeux, reflecting on the stunning landscapes and experiences of your trip.
Additional Tips
The town of Bayeux closes really early. So, stock up on any groceries or other essentials you might need when you can. There is a Carrefour which closes at 8pm.
There are a few souvenir shops which looked really good from outside, but we were never around when they were open. Do pick up some nice souvenirs when you can. I found some very nice stuff at the gift shop of the Airborne Museum.
Avoid travelling to Bayeux around 6th June because of the influx of tourists who come here on the anniversary of D Day.
Book the car well in advance so that there are no problems with availability.
An International Driving Permit isn't necessary for Indian nationals for renting a car in France. However, driving on the right will take some getting used to.
Be careful of traffic rules. They can get a bit confusing, especially when you don’t know the language.
